Riads and Dars

Riads are traditional homes found in Morroco and Analusian Spain. They feature a center garden or courtyard, often with a fountain or pool and are several stories high. The courtyard portion is topped by a retractable roof to let in air, let out hot air, and water the plants inside. Around the courtyard are rooms on each level. If there are windows to the outside, they are small and have grates. In the traditional riads, in the old medina's or walled cities, riads often abut the next riad with no space between. Inside rooms have windows to the courtyard. Dars are apt to be found outside the medina walls. They often have outdoor space around them and more garden areas. Some had swimming pools, not that we had the time or inclination. These were once the homes of the wealthy. Today many have been turned into small boutique hotels. They are delightful and visitors to Morocco would make a big mistake staying in western style hotels. Around the operable courtyard roof, the remaining area is flat roofed and is a great place to hang laundry, enjoy the views, perhaps eat breakfast. They are designed to aid air flow and remain cool, and the splashiing of a fountain provides a quiet interlude to the congested and bustly cities. On my two week journey, we stayed in Riads or Dars with two exceptions. One was in the Sahara. There we slept in tents, but unlike the tent I slept in on my first trip to Morocco which was quite traditional, this was GLAMPIMG. Each tent had its own bathroom. Beds on frames replaced sleeping on the ground. When the wind came up, and we did experience a sand storm, the tents creaked and flapped and some sand got it, but they held up. The Berbers have had centuries to perfect tent living. The other exception to Riads and Dars, was our first and last hotel, which was in Casablanca. It was an ordinary business type hotel, no character, and a staff that was courteous but without the warmth we received every place else. The exception was one of the bellhops who had a genuine smile each time he saw you. Below are some photos of interiors of places we stayed. There are a few exteriors, but the interest was generally inside:

Above is a side of the dar in Chefchaouen.. My room was to the right of this photo, up steps (of course....this place actually had an elevator, but not to my room) with a small outside courtyard and an inside sitting room I shared with a woman in my group. dThis Dar was located outside the medina walls and had multiple levels, several outside sitting areas and even a pool. The second photo is looking down the entry steps to the outside "road." Our jeeps were able to take us to this entrance, but then had to turn around and park below this part of town.

Our riad, below, in Fez, is typical; three stories with a central courtyard with a fountain. You entered from a narrow alley, and the building abuts the one on either side. On the front and back side there may be tiny windows with grates. Elaborate tile work is the norm. Steep steps, with several angles to hug the wall, take you upstairs to rooms and rooftop. In the first photo, the staircase to my first floor (as opposed to ground floor) room is thru the archway in the center of the photo. The washer and dryer for the riad were in this tiny room. and my steps began beyond that. Above The top step is a 3 inch ledge with the door. I had to stand on the corner step below and reach high to unlock my door. The two retangular windows above the arch are the windows for my room. I could look out and see the courtyard. The bathroom had a tiny deep set window to an ally. Mostly, inside the riads was quiet and peaceful, but tell that to the cat in heat and her partner! I was going to leave it open as I love the sound of the call to prayers which happens 5 times a day, but the serenade was a little too much.

The tent in the Sahara was defnitely upscale. Outside carpets, ones I would cherish if I had a house big enough to put them in, allowed you to walk between tents without too much sand,took you to the eating area, and the outside shade patio. They were barely visible after the sandstorm, but it wasn't long until they were swept. We didn't have much "down" time on this trip, but fellow photographers, Leslie and John took a mid-afternoon break. The sports equipment was for skiing the dunes.

In the Dades Valley, which includes a deep gorge, we stayed in a new Dar. It was dark when we arrived and Mohammed kept saying he hoped he hadn't misssed the turn, it seemed like we had gone too far. He knew exactly where we were, and after a short distance on a rough dirt road he pulled up to Dar Blues. It did make the arrival more exciting. Although this is a new hotel, and we got to meet the builder, it incorporates lots of traditional touches, like tile work, a center shaft to the ceiling, lots of arches and soft corners. It also included Fatima, an incredible cook. Self taught, she provided a gourmet dinner and wonderful breakfast. The following photos are from this beautiful dar:

my room.  I had a sitting room, in the foreground that could have slept a couple extra people with the bedroom and bath beyoun.

Fatima

The final photos are a random collection of the other places we stayed. It is obvious by now, that I loved the arches and they figure in many of my photos. Many places use solar energy, there is one photo here. The "roads" to the riads within the medinas (the old walled parts of the cities) are narrow. Besides having been built long before autos, the narrow alleys stay cool as only minimal sun hits them...and sometimes lattice screens help even more. Our luggage to riads was often taken in carts which can navigate the alleys. Although most of the traffic is foot traffic, there is an ocassional burro or donkey and scooters. And scooters may be stored inside the riads. In Skouria our three driver\guides joined with a local artist they knew and presented a special outdoor concert on the grounds of our inn.